This is my last Copenhagen post for this visit. We explored two new spots this time and some old haunts as well. The Arken Museum for Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle have been on our list for awhile. We had beautiful sunny days on both occasions so the walk around the lake and on the beach in both instances were breathtaking.
A visit to Copenhagen never seems to be complete unless we stroll around Tivoli’s beautiful gardens. The night we were there we hit the dance floor and took a spin along with the Big Band that was playing. They were fantastic! Afterwards we stayed to watch the fireworks and stayed cozy under the heaters, while sitting on sheepskin rugs and drinking hot chocolate. It was a perfect evening.
Oh Copenhagen, as always, I can’t wait to return!
Arken Museum, Homage to the Hunters from Mande, Abdoulaye Donate
Arken Museum, Lady with Anemone, Gerda Wegener
Arken Museum, Circle of Animals, Ai WeiWei
Arken Museum, National Career Lamp, Olafur Eliasson
This was a rainy day discovery on our last visit to Copenhagen. They were closing up and we promised ourselves we would return to check it out. We did return the following day, but we were too late. There was only a slice of apple pie left.
So with this visit we made sure that we arrived early and boy was it worth it! We should have been good and each made a different choice so we could share. But that s’mores pie just looked so delicious that we both wanted it!
This visit to Copenhagen brought some new discoveries and visits to old favourites. Heading to Warpigs, Neighbourhood Pizza and Juicy Burger is always a must. As well as a trip to the Torvehallerne.
This time we discovered Jagger, a fabulous place for fried chicken and cheeseburgers as well as Kaffe & Vinyl. The perfect hideaway for coffee and whatever the barista is DJ-ing (usually Jazz).
One of our favourite lunches this go-round was at the Aquarium. However it did feel slightly wrong to be eating fish while we were looking at fish, but we just ran with it.
After finishing up a cup of coffee at Kaffee & Vinyl one morning we headed down the street and turned to the sound of an old fashioned school bell ringing. We realised that unlike the musical tunes that our ice cream vans play in England, in Copenhagen, the Ice Cream man rings a bell to announce his arrival. It was beyond charming!
I have a secret! Mr. Michie surprised me on Valentine’s by telling me he was taking me to our beloved city for a short break! I almost passed out with delight! We bundled up and walked through the snow to some of our favourite places and made some new discoveries along the way too. We ate delicious food, lit candles in our apartment and watched the river go by at night. It was very hygge!
Our view of the river.
Le Gourmand on Værnedamsvej. This street is the “mini Paris” of Copenhagen.
Blomsterskuret, the most amazing flower shop. Also located on Værnedamsvej.
Tulips for sale at Blomsterskuret.
Snow laden branches.
A walk in the snow.
Lunch at the Louisiana Museum.
Physichromie 497, Carlos Cruz-Diez at the Louisiana Museum.
A different way to view the world, Louisiana Museum.
Juicy Burger Order.
Juicy Burger potatoes.
Brisket, sweet pickles and mac ‘n cheese at Warpigs.
The main purpose for our trip to Copenhagen, was a selfish one on my part. I wanted to see an exhibition at the Louisiana Museum. They were holding a Yayoi Kusama retrospective. I have long been a fan of this woman and the exhibition did not disappoint!
Kusama left Japan and moved to the states in 1957, first to Seattle before settling in New York. There she became a fixture within the avant-garde. She mixed with and influenced the work of Andy Warhol and others. She considered Eva Hess and Joseph Cornell close friends. She designed “happenings” all over NYC, usually involving nudity and conceived to protest the Vietnam War. She moved back to Japan in 1972 and slowly became forgotten. But not by everyone! Over the last 10 or so years, I have seen such a resurgence of her presence and it makes me tremendously happy.
The Louisana and Kusama have a strong relationship. She is truly appreciated by the museum and I can tell you by the number of people that flocked to the exhibit, she is worshiped by the people as well.
The exhibition was all encompassing. Three of her pumpkin statues greeted you in the courtyard. The show moved through her life and work, including films and sketchbooks. The scale truly gets you. The size of some of her pieces are almost unreal. They dwarf you. You don’t just enter her installations you also become a part of them. You are totally encompassed within them, the floors, walls, ceilings all covered in her polka dots.
I was delighted to see her pumpkins and I was especially delighted to see and take part within the “Obliteration Room”. Where visitors were given different colored polka dot stickers and allowed to place them on any surface of the white room. The room gradually becomes obliterated by polka dots.
There is something so unique about this museum. The modern design; the light and openness created by expansive windows; and the surrounding grounds filled with the joys of nature and one hell of a breathtaking view across the sound, all work to add the magic of the place. Seeing Kusama’s work exhibited within their space made it all the more special.
When in Copenhagen, we normally try to strike a balance between cooking in our apartment overlooking the river and dining out. This trip we tried a few new places and have added on more for our next visit.
First stop was to Conditori La Glace for a pitcher of hot chocolate with a heaping bowl of whipped cream alongside. I got a slice of the Karen Blixen Cake, a delicious blend of coffee and chocolate.
We tried a new burger joint. Burgers are the “in” thing in Copenhagen right now. Vesterbro’s Original Burger Restaurant was our pick. We visited the Istedgade location. However, I’m ashamed to say that we were so hungry and I dove right into my Greek burger and devoured it before even thinking I should snap a picture of it’s gorgeous loveliness. A word to the wise, if you visit this place, the portions are very generous and one order of french fries is easily shared between two if not three people.
Our favourite foodie discovery this trip was Neighbourhood Pizza. Where do I begin? It’s a cozy setting. you sit alongside strangers, but it still felt intimate. I had the Pumpkin Sour Cocktail, as their tagline stated: pumpkin is the new black! It was truly refreshing, not cloyingly sweet or bitter at all, it walked the perfect line. Next up, the PIZZA! Their pizza base is ultra thin and crispy. It was almost cracker like at the edges. They serve a salad on top of the pizza and a section of infused oils sit on the table to dress your salad and pizza as you so desire. I had the Fig Ham (Cured parma ham, fresh figs, red onions, goat cheese, capers, olive compote & fresh parsley) and Mr. Michie ate the Tomato Chicken (Spiced fried chicken, picked baby tomatoes, red onions, buffalo mozzarella, tomato pesto & fresh coriander). Each bite was a new taste sensation. It was culinary happiness. We split a piece of chocolate cake for dessert. Pure JOY!
Of course no trip to Copenhagen would be complete if we didn’t have coffee and chocolate cinnamon buns from Emmery’s for breakfast. Happiness is…
Our latest Copenhagen adventure was filled with long walks, delicious food, art and of course a trip to Tivoli. Everywhere we went, candles were lit and pumpkins glowed; it was so cozy. The weather was frosty, the air was brisk – it truly felt like fall.
Once again, we were awed by the magic of the park. It was entirely decked out for Halloween. Hay bales and pumpkins were everywhere! Rides had even been transformed for the festive season and each of the many restaurants were in on the act with their own ghostly decorations.
Little Halloween huts were dotted around, selling Halloween goodies; delicious food, hot chocolate and freshly fried doughnuts. I treated Mr. Michie to a hot dog (his favourite) and he bought me an adorable black satin witch’s hat to wear for Halloween.
Normally, we just stroll through the grounds and don’t go on the rides, but this time we bought tickets at a kiosk and went on the ‘Flying Trunk‘ ride, which is based around a collection of Hans Christian Andersen’s stories. It was adorable! This was my one blurry snap of The Little Mermaid:
As the sun went down and day turned to night, the lights slowly came on and scarecrow pumpkins glowed everywhere. Tivoli is such a magical place!
Mr. Michie and I headed back to our apartment filled with the spirit of Halloween.
This was my view last night as we flew back from our beloved Copenhagen to London. I’ve been quiet in this space the past few days, because I have been having too much fun. I’ll blog about it soon, there is so much I want to share!
We have extremely varied musical taste in our household. We seem to go through phases. Right now, there is a lot of Jazz being played.
It was on our last trip to Copenhagen that we visited the Museum of Copenhagen, and it wasn’t until I walked into one of their exhibits that I discovered that Dexter Gordon was a long time Copenhagen resident. His song Tivoli, just gets to me.
Tivoli Gardens is one of our treasured places to visit. Maybe it’s the weather, maybe it’s my current book of choice, but I have “itchy feet” as my Nana would say. I’m ready to travel, get a little dust in my shoes and move about another place.
It’s brisk here today and I know it’s cold in Denmark too. So maybe, if I was in Copenhagen, I would bundle up and walk along the river, over one of my beloved bridges, down into the City. Stopping somewhere for a drink, wrapping myself in the thick fleece blankets that are stacked up by the door to ward off the chill.
Maybe I would watch night slowly begin to fall as the glow of candles fill the streets. Maybe I would stop for pizza at the restaurant we like tucked down the alley and grab a bottle of wine from Irma’s and return to our apartment. Maybe we’d sit and eat and laugh and watch the water buses go by and the rainbow of reflections shimmer in their wake.
And maybe we would listen to Dextor Gordon and we would simply be.