We were lucky enough on a cold afternoon to find a cozy spot by the window at The American Pie Co. In a warmly lit space, by the glow of candlelight, we feasted in delight. We were slowly defrosted by mugs of hot chocolate and coffee. Mr. Michie got a slice of the deep dish cinnamon bread pie, glazed in a shimmering sweet drizzle and I got the pink peppermint pie. It was decadent and chocolatey and refreshing all in one bite.
We ventured out to Roskilde during this trip to see the Viking Museum and the Cathedral (which was the first Gothic cathedral to be built of brick in Scandinavia and a UNESCO World Heritage site). The town itself, is just charming. It was a Viking stronghold and became the capitol and center of Danish life during the Middle Ages.
We strolled from the train station down through town. There were lots of stops for window shopping and I just had to go in to one store in particular. It was a gorgeous place with a tea and cake shop on one side and beautiful gifts and antiques on the other. I was very good and just looked, but I could have bought out half the shop!
This was written on a plaque next to the Spring: St. John’s Spring was a holy spring, named after St. John the Baptist. The outflow as it appears today dates from 1834. In 1835 the 11m deep well was excavated. Numerous potsherds and two almost intact earthenware jugs were found, dating from the time when sick persons came to the spring to be healed.
We walked down to the Viking Museum first. As we neared a field just past the church, we could hear the sound of splashing water. We both looked around and discovered a spring. Not just any spring, but the Skt. Hans Kilde ( St. John’s Spring). This was one of three sacred springs within Roskilde. It was a popular pilgrimage site during the Middle Ages, because many of the sick, thought they would be healed by drinking the water.
As we approached the museum, the smell of the sea filled our nostrils. The front of the museum acts as a storage shipyard. Boats were covered for the winter and lined up along the path with descriptions written next to them. I fell in love with one boat from 1944, Brudpiga. It was a church boat that carried people from scattered villages and farms along the Siljan lake in Sweden to church on Sundays. It could hold up to 60 people. It had 20 oars and a crew of 22 men. My imagination was running wild after reading that sign. I am sure I was romanticising it within my head, but I had cozy visions of traveling in that boat by candlelight along the shores, gathering people and meeting friends, who you might not see again until the following week.
The architecture of the building housing the five ships was thoughtfully devised. You felt as if the boats and the sea blended into one. The outside and the inside working together in harmony. The Viking Museum was truly fascinating! It’s incredible that this discovery was even made and then the time it took to excavate and preserve it, is even more astounding. I can’t wait to go back in the Summer to watch them working on boats in the shipyard and if we’re really lucky to ride on one of the ships they take out into the fjord.
I couldn’t help but snap this picture of a picture, of one of the conservationist working on preserving the wood of the ships. Those glasses just rock!
A view over the bridge to the working shipyard and outbuildings.
We stopped for a snack in the cafe. I had hot chocolate and we split a piece of apple cake. The cafe’s menu is inspired by the Vikings. They use the same ingredients that were available during the Viking Age as well as those that were brought home from the Viking’s voyages. They strive to bring to life the five Skuldelev ships through food. I liked that. Food is important on so many different levels and to intertwine the past and the present was a lovely way of bringing the Vikings to life.
I loved this terracotta pink house with it’s green trim. It looked cozy inside.
Next stop was the Cathedral. We only had a short time in the Cathedral and we definitely needed longer. The sun was setting and the shadows that were created were both breathtaking and also eerie. The history within the church, it’s connection to the monarchy and to the artists who worked there piqued my interest.
Frescos c.1460, in the Chapel of the Magi
Tomb of the Scandinavian Queen Margrethe I.
Tomb of Christian IX and Queen Louise.
In the Christian IX chapel the three female figures that flank the double tomb of Christian IX and Queen Louise were designed by Edvard Eriksen. He was the creator of the famous Little Mermaid statue that sits in the harbour in Copenhagen. His wife was the model for these statues and you can particularly see that in the posing of the Little Mermaid and the central female figure at the tombs. We stayed until the bells chimed to signal the doors were closing for the night.
We walked back through town in the dark. The twinkle of Christmas lights glowing all around us. I couldn’t resist peeking through the gates of the convent to see their lights, a welcoming beacon on a frosty night. This city is on our list to keep exploring, there was just too much to see in a day! But, I’m not going to complain about that, it’s a good excuse to go back!
I have always loved flowers and I adore the flower shops in Denmark. Simple, yet elegantly arranged, candles lit in the windows and on stands outside. The flowers aren’t just contained within the stores, they spill out over the thresholds and into the street.
Without fail, I spot something unusual, like wreaths that have bulbs, ready to burst open, wired directly to the the frame. Or, hydrangea petals glued around a star shaped stake; placed in a pot amongst moss, bulbs and miniature candles. It’s invariably an array of colour and smells. A feast for the senses and a true delight!
A trip to Denmark, never feels complete unless we get to walk through the breathtaking halls of the Louisiana Museum. It holds a special place in my heart. Strolling through the sculpture gardens; staring at Sweden across the sea; absorbing all the light from the floor to ceiling windows; taking in the architecture and the lighting, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
This was a special trip for me, as we were going to see the Louise Bourgeois Exhibition. I have long been an admirer of her work and to see her Cell series put together like this was hair-raising. It featured all 25 cells and was the first exhibition to do so. To be able to touch and see what she had touched, seen and created, made the experience a deeply moving and intimate one. I noticed on a few of the cells, her hand writing scrawled across the upper part of the doors, labelling them as the “top”. There was a realness to these nooks, they existed within their own worlds. Worlds that we were, at once, a part of and an intruder. I was overjoyed that we had the chance to see this particular exhibition.
Louise Bourgeois, Cell I
Louise Bourgeois, Cell I (a peak inside)
Louise Bourgeois, Cell VI
Louise Bourgeois, Spider
Louise Bourgeois, Spider (detail)
Louise Bourgeois, I Give Everything Away
Louise Bourgeois, Cell XXVI
Other highlights on this visit were the Daniel Richter paintings and work by the Spanish artist Juan Muñoz. Of course we made a pit stop to step inside Yayoi Kusama’s Gleaming Lights of the Souls. It is always worth the wait to go in to that magical little room.
Juan Muñoz, Half Circle
Daniel Richter, Tarifa
Daniel Richter, Alles Ohne Nichts
Daniel Richter, Amsterdam
Daniel Richter, Winter Journey 4
As always it is a treat to stop and eat lunch at the Louisiana. The fire was lit, and there was a beautiful view from the windows of the ocean rocking and rolling at a steady pace just beyond. The air was damp and clean. We feasted on sparkling apple juice and Christmas sausages with the most divine orange sauce; bowls of Jerusalem artichoke soup; and a variety of salads and fresh bread. It is simple, yet elegant.
Michael Elmgreen & Ingar Dragset, Powerless Structures, fig. 11
I adore hot chocolate and it tends to be my breakfast drink of choice while in Copenhagen. These were just a few snaps I took at some of my favourite places to have this comforting concoction of velvety chocolatey happiness. Very hygge!
We had dinner tonight at one of our favourite places, Neighbourhood Pizza. I had a Christmas Bellini and the Basil Shrimp pizza. While, Mr. Michie opted for one of my personal favourites, the Nordic Apples. Happiness is…
This is my last Copenhagen post for this visit. We explored two new spots this time and some old haunts as well. The Arken Museum for Modern Art and Frederiksborg Castle have been on our list for awhile. We had beautiful sunny days on both occasions so the walk around the lake and on the beach in both instances were breathtaking.
A visit to Copenhagen never seems to be complete unless we stroll around Tivoli’s beautiful gardens. The night we were there we hit the dance floor and took a spin along with the Big Band that was playing. They were fantastic! Afterwards we stayed to watch the fireworks and stayed cozy under the heaters, while sitting on sheepskin rugs and drinking hot chocolate. It was a perfect evening.
Oh Copenhagen, as always, I can’t wait to return!
Arken Museum, Homage to the Hunters from Mande, Abdoulaye Donate
Arken Museum, Lady with Anemone, Gerda Wegener
Arken Museum, Circle of Animals, Ai WeiWei
Arken Museum, National Career Lamp, Olafur Eliasson
This was a rainy day discovery on our last visit to Copenhagen. They were closing up and we promised ourselves we would return to check it out. We did return the following day, but we were too late. There was only a slice of apple pie left.
So with this visit we made sure that we arrived early and boy was it worth it! We should have been good and each made a different choice so we could share. But that s’mores pie just looked so delicious that we both wanted it!
This visit to Copenhagen brought some new discoveries and visits to old favourites. Heading to Warpigs, Neighbourhood Pizza and Juicy Burger is always a must. As well as a trip to the Torvehallerne.
This time we discovered Jagger, a fabulous place for fried chicken and cheeseburgers as well as Kaffe & Vinyl. The perfect hideaway for coffee and whatever the barista is DJ-ing (usually Jazz).
One of our favourite lunches this go-round was at the Aquarium. However it did feel slightly wrong to be eating fish while we were looking at fish, but we just ran with it.
After finishing up a cup of coffee at Kaffee & Vinyl one morning we headed down the street and turned to the sound of an old fashioned school bell ringing. We realised that unlike the musical tunes that our ice cream vans play in England, in Copenhagen, the Ice Cream man rings a bell to announce his arrival. It was beyond charming!
I have a secret! Mr. Michie surprised me on Valentine’s by telling me he was taking me to our beloved city for a short break! I almost passed out with delight! We bundled up and walked through the snow to some of our favourite places and made some new discoveries along the way too. We ate delicious food, lit candles in our apartment and watched the river go by at night. It was very hygge!
Our view of the river.
Le Gourmand on Værnedamsvej. This street is the “mini Paris” of Copenhagen.
Blomsterskuret, the most amazing flower shop. Also located on Værnedamsvej.
Tulips for sale at Blomsterskuret.
Snow laden branches.
A walk in the snow.
Lunch at the Louisiana Museum.
Physichromie 497, Carlos Cruz-Diez at the Louisiana Museum.
A different way to view the world, Louisiana Museum.
Juicy Burger Order.
Juicy Burger potatoes.
Brisket, sweet pickles and mac ‘n cheese at Warpigs.